Historic Lincoln, New Mexico

Event date: Tuesday, Aug. 20, 2019

I've had a love affair with the history of the American West since childhood. Beginning with the Lewis and Clark exploration of the newly acquired territory (Louisiana Purchase) in 1803, I'll read anything about the American West I can get my hands on. The Lincoln County War has always held my fascination.

Since Ruidoso is only about 35 miles from Lincoln, we decided to drive over there one morning. We had passed through the small village once or twice before, but we had never stopped. This time we stopped and toured the old courthouse and the Tunstall-McSween store.

The Lincoln County War had simmered for some time prior to the murder of John H. Tunstall in February, 1878. But it was his death that served as the official start of the war. It officially ended in mid July of the same year with the "Battle of Lincoln," when Tunstall's friend and business partner, Alexander McSween, was killed. In between these two dates, numerous killings occurred, all because of greed and the desire to control a monopoly in the area. And violence related to the "war" continued well past the "Battle of Lincoln".

Several notable historical figures played some part in the so-called war. These included Lew Wallace (NM territorial governor and author of Ben Hur), John Chisum (cattle baron of the Pecos River country), Pat Garrett (buffalo hunter turned bartender turned lawman), and of course William H. Bonney (later known as Billy the Kid). Numerous lessor figures of historical importance also participated, and their names are easily recognized by Western historians: John Poe, Charlie Siringo, Jesse Evans, Pete Maxwell, and Jimmy Dolan, to name a few.

Our first stop of the day was the Courthouse Museum. Built in 1873-74, the building served as headquarters for the Murphy-Dolan business enterprise, one faction of the upcoming Lincoln County War. It was sold to the county in 1880, and served as the courthouse for many years thereafter. Following his trial for the murder of Sheriff Brady, Billy the Kid was held upstairs and guarded day and night by two men while awaiting his execution by hanging. Before that event could occur, though, the Kid made his escape, killing both guards in the process.

US 380 is the only road through Lincoln. The Courthouse is on right. The white picket fence in center of picture is location of the Wortley Hotel, from which Deputy Bob Olinger emerged after hearing gunshots from the courthouse. He didn't know it, but he had only seconds to live.

After a visit to the privy, the Kid and Deputy Bell reached the top of these stairs. No one knows for sure what happened next -- there are several theories -- but the Kid was able to get his hands on a pistol. As Bell fled down the stairs, the Kid snapped off a couple of shots. Bell staggered out the back door and died moments later. The hole in the wall at the bottom of the stairs was supposedly made by a bullet from the Kid's gun.

The area where the Kid was held while awaiting his execution. Lincoln didn't have a real jail, so the Kid was held in chains, with leg irons attached to the floor. After killing Deputy Bell, the Kid broke into the gun room, took down Olinger's double-barreled shotgun, and waited at the window at center of picture for Olinger to return. As Olinger approached the courthouse, someone yelled to him, "Bob, the Kid has killed Bell." Olinger looked up and exclaimed, "Yes, and he's killed me, too." About the same time, the Kid yelled, "Look up, old boy, and see what you get." Olinger was struck in the head and chest by both barrels and died instantly.

The Wortley Hotel, just across the street from the Courthouse. Olinger had taken some prisoners here to be fed.

The Courthouse, as seen from near the Wortley. The Kid was in the upstairs window at left, just above the white sign, as he waited for Olinger to return to investigate the shooting. The steps leading up to the balcony in front were not in place then. Most people going upstairs would have gone around back to enter the building.

Back of the Courthouse. Deputy Bell stumbled out the door on the right and died only a few steps from the door.

The museum, of course, has exhibits covering all of this, but it also contains photos, relics, and exhibits on law officers of Lincoln County, the history of the Masons in the county, and the history of the building in general.

From the Courthouse Museum, we moved down the street to the old Tunstall-McSween store. This building was a major reason for the war. The Murphy-Dolan faction did not like competition, so when Tunstall and McSween partnered to open the store, it was just a matter of time before violence erupted. One of the neat things about the store is that many of the items on the shelves are original. It's interesting to look at some of these old items.

Exterior of Tunstall-McSween store. The two men formed a partnership to compete with the Murphy-Dolan faction. The partnership would lead to their early deaths.

Interior of Tunstall-McSween store.

19th century merchandise on the shelves of the Tunstall-McSween store.

Tunstall's quarters in the store. He lived on his ranch but would stay here when in town. According to a sign, the hole in the floor next to bed is said to be where a wounded Billy hid following the Regulators ambush of Sheriff Brady. However, according to sources such as Robert Utley -- who is a leading Lincoln County War researcher -- it was Jim French who hid in the flooring, and it was in the McSween home, not the store. Who knows for sure?

We drove up and down the only street running through town. There are historic structures on both sides of the highway. If you decide to venture to Lincoln, be forewarned that there is no gasoline available there. The nearest gas stations are in either Hondo or Capitan, both about 10 or so miles away.

The old Ellis store.

The Torreon was built about 1850 or so by early settlers in the area as a defense against Indians. It also served as a defensive position for the Regulators during the Battle of Lincoln in July 1878.

Old church.

I snapped this photo from behind the Courthouse to show the weather. Every day, storm clouds like these moved in. We enjoyed rain every single day of our trip.