Hike Report: Foothills Loop Trail, Kartchner Caverns State Park

The Foothills Trail is, for all intents and purposes, the only hiking trail at Kartchner Caverns State Park. Now, there is a trailhead at the west end of the park that accesses the Guindani Trail in the Whetstone Mountains of the Coronado National Forest, but the Foothills Trail is the only trail entirely within Kartchner Caverns SP.

We began the hike late in the day, at roughly 3:00. The map indicated the trail was only 2.5 miles, so I thought we would knock that out in roughly 1 to 1.5 hours. I was wrong. This trail is rated moderate to difficult. No bicycles or motorized vehicles are permitted. The trail is clearly marked, and numerous information kiosks and benches are located along the trail. The trail is well maintained considering the terrain, and there is no trouble following it.

Trail is well maintained and defined near the start. Once away from the campground and Discovery Center, it loses the border and surface, but is still a good trail.

We walked to the trailhead from our campsite. Actually, there are 4 access points to the trail. We hiked in a clockwise direction, so we began by following Guindani Wash, which we crisscrossed numerous times. Near the west perimeter of the park, there is a junction. The left (or west) trail goes to the Guindani Trail mentioned above. We took the other fork and began heading north, climbing the hill at the back of the caverns. There is some gentle ledge-walking along this section of the route, and there are numerous exposed rocky areas that I was sure to keep an eye on in case rattlers might be warming themselves.

Guindani Wash

Gentle ledge walking on the west side of the hills.

Eventually the trail turns sharply back to the east and climbs to a ridge that offers good views to the east. Just to the north is a taller hill blocking views to the north, but to the east you can see the highway, some of the park buildings, and the mountains to the east, including the area around Tombstone and Cochise’s Stronghold.

Views to the east. I believe the ragged area on the left is known as Cochise's Stronghold.

The trail dips for a while, then begins to snake up the taller hill. Footing along this stretch is sometimes challenging, and there is quite a bit of ledge walking. We met another couple about our age along this stretch, and the man remarked that the trail was fit only for mountain goats. Well, that is a bit of an exaggeration, but it gives some idea of the rocky trail. There is loose rock as well as exposed rock, so you have to watch every step you take. And all the time, you are either going up or going down.

Our back trail along the middle portion of the trail.

Eventually, the trail reaches a ridge to the east of the taller hill. At this point, there is a spur trail heading west up the taller hill to what the map calls the Mountain Viewpoint. By this point, we had been on the trail longer than I had anticipated, and the sun was racing towards the mountains in the west. I wanted to go up the Mountain Viewpoint, but I didn’t want to get caught in these mountains after dark with temperatures falling. So, we continued on the Foothills Trail Loop and headed east. The trail gradually worked its way down the mountain. I actually thought this stretch of the trail was less challenging than the middle portion.

View of the Discovery Center and other park buildings from our higher elevation.

Bedrock mortar near the end of the trail used by native Americans.

Soon, we were down on fairly level ground. As we neared the Discovery Center, the trail passes beneath a bridge that the park’s trolley system uses to ferry visitors to and from the cave. We eventually worked our way back to our camp.

For a 2.5 mile hike, this is a good challenge. The trail almost constantly goes up and down, so your legs get a good workout.

Kartchner Caverns State Park

We really are enjoying our stay at Kartchner Caverns State Park. Now, part of it is that we just hadn't stayed in a real state park anywhere for quite a while. It's nice to be out, away from a city, surrounding my nature. But mostly, this is just a really nice park.

The park is located on Arizona 90 about 10 or 12 miles south of Benson, Arizona, in the southeastern part of the state. The main attraction of the park is the caverns, but Donna and I came for different reasons. In fact, we don't even plan to go on a cave tour; we've been on so many over the years that they no longer interest us. We mainly came because of the location. I've wanted to visit Tombstone for years, and it is nearby.

But the park offers a short hiking trail, the Foothills Loop Trail, and I'll report on that in another entry.

The park offers sites with water and electricity; full hookups are not available. All interior roads and sites are paved, though our site -- # 40 -- was very unlevel from side to side and from front to back (see park map). 2 restrooms/showers are located in the camping area. Each site has a picnic table. A new service, just started about 10 days or so before our arrival, is WiFi. Passwords are required, and these are issued per user, and that process is a bit tedious. We ended up going to the Discovery Center to get our pass code. The connection worked well once we were able to log in, though I did have to log in at intervals. I'm sure they will refine the process once they get a bit more experience at it and get the bugs worked out. Recycling bins are available for aluminum, plastic, and mixed paper.

One of the 2 restrooms/showers in the camping area.

Scenery is beautiful, especially towards the Whetstone Mountains on the west side of the park in the Coronado National Forest. The weather was perfect during our stay, with daily highs in the mid to upper 70s and lows in the mid to upper 40s.

This is the view from our trailer.

Donna enjoying the beautiful weather. Notice boards under trailer tires to help level it.

Beautiful view of the Whetstone Mountains from the Discovery Center

Another view of the Whetstone Mountains. You can see the tops of some of the RVs in our campground through the brush.

Even if you don't intend to tour the cave, take time to visit the Discovery Center. A couple of rooms in the Center are designed to resemble a cave. The entire facility is well done. There is also a small cafe, the Bat Cave Cafe, where you can get basic snack bar foods.

Room in the Discovery Center designed to resemble a cave.

I don't know if we will ever pass this way again, but if we do, this park will be a likely spot if we are in an RV.

On the Road: Yuma, AZ, to Kartchner Caverns State Park

We’re at Kartchner Caverns State Park now, in the southeastern part of Arizona near Benson.


We left Yuma, Arizona, early yesterday morning. We had 279 miles ahead of us and we needed an early start. Just a few blocks from our RV park in Yuma, we pulled on Interstate 8, which we would follow about 180 miles until it merged with Interstate 10 near Casa Grande, Arizona, a few miles south of Phoenix.



Just a few miles east of Yuma, all east-bound interstate traffic had to pass through a Border Patrol inspection station. The next few miles then passed through some mountainous terrain. At one point, the west-bound traffic was to the south of us, something I’ve never seen before. But then the highway sloped down to level ground. From that point on, the drive was easy and pleasant. There was little traffic, with few trucks, and for the most part the drive was straight and level. I enjoyed it.


We continued to see productive farm land along both sides of the interstate, especially to the north near the Gila River. We even saw – and smelled – numerous cattle feed yards. Undoubtedly, most of the crops along the route were alfalfa or other crops used to feed these cattle. Once past Gila Bend, we saw a haze in the distance. As we approached, we discovered it was caused by tractors working the fields and stirring the dirt, forming thin dust clouds in the air.


At Casa Grande, we merged with Interstate 10 and headed south to Tucson. Traffic increased considerably at this point, but we enjoyed the 6 lane highway (3 lanes each direction). Traffic through Tucson at midday was not too bad and we soon found ourselves east of Tucson on the final leg of the journey.


Just west of Benson, we turned south on Highway 90 for the final 10 miles to the park. We immediately noticed the similarity of the land to some areas of West Texas. We now saw grass growing on the hillsides, and the grass-covered mountains were gentle like those around the Davis Mountains. Highway 90, at least for the stretch we were on, is a 4 lane highway. After a short drive of 10 miles or so, we pulled into Kartchner Caverns, our home for the next 3 nights.

Sunset Palm RV Park

During our time in Yuma, Arizona, we stayed at Sunset Palm RV park. The park is located in the far eastern part of Yuma in an area called the Foothills. It is one of a group of commonly owned RV parks. The other parks are located adjacent with one or two exceptions. There are RV parks all over Yuma. In fact, you can’t really toss a pig in any direction without hitting one. Deciding on a single park is really difficult.


Sunset Palm is not a resort RV park. It doesn’t have a pool, for example, or beautiful landscaping. It’s simply a very comfortable, reliable park. Streets are paved, but each site is gravel. Each site has a concrete patio and a good place to park your tow or towed vehicle. All sites have full hookups, including cable TV with about 25 stations. WiFi is not available in the park. The laundry room is clean and all machines work.

The office area includes the laundry, a meeting room, a library with book swap, and 2 pool tables. 

Laundry room.

Our site, #59, had a nice concrete patio and plenty of room to park our truck.

One of the streets in the park.

One of several park models in the park.

The park is not large. There are only 102 sites. Most sites are occupied by long-term residents, mostly winter visitors fleeing the cold. Many of them come here year after year to enjoy the pleasant Yuma winters. There are a few park models, and there are a few short term residents like us. Everyone in the park was friendly. You could tell they enjoyed staying here. Each evening, people would sit on their patios, often visiting one another. Lots of folks walk around the park or ride their bicycles. They often have pancake breakfasts or coffee and snacks in the mornings. People truly seem to enjoy their stays here.


Shopping and dining are convenient to the park. There is a large grocery store, Fry’s, about half a mile to the east, while a large Walmart is about 3 or 4 miles west. Numerous restaurants are located nearby. The park is about half a mile from Interstate 8, so traffic noise is not really a problem. Our site (#59) was at the front of the park, so we did hear quite a bit of street noise from South Payson Drive, the street bordering the park, but it was not enough to keep us awake at night. I could also hear a train occasionally at night, but the track is about 3 miles or so north, so it was a problem.

Rates at the park are very reasonable, especially for long-term residents. It’s a good place to stay.

Yuma, Arizona

Yuma, Arizona, has been a pleasant surprise for us. Before arriving here, I had images of a hot, barren desert in my mind. Sure, it does get hot here in the summer, and it is surrounded by desert, but it is anything but barren.

Almost 100,000 people call Yuma home. And if you throw in all the neighboring communities, the Standard Metropolitan Statistical Area is easily twice that size. It is a very progressive community with fine shopping and good restaurants.

I was really surprised by all the crops grown here. Lettuce is a huge winter crop. Lemon groves are everywhere. We also saw cabbage, peanuts, other citrus groves, and various other crops. Numerous large canals crisscross the area, feeding smaller canals that flood fields with life giving water. I do not know the source of the water, but it is vitally important to this area.

One of the large canals in the area. I don't recall what is being grown on the right. To the left is a lemon grove.

A lemon Grove with one or two other crops in front.

Close up of some lemon trees. Click the picture to enlarge it and you should be able to see some lemons.

We visited a the Arizona Market Place one day. It is the largest outdoor market place in Arizona. Everything you could want was sold there, such as clothes, tools, kitchen tools, even RVs. We bought some fresh locally grown produce.

Arizona Market Place

We visited a place called Martha's Gardens one day. It sits in the middle of a date farm. We had heard of "date shakes" since arriving in the area, so we had to try one. It was thick, rich, and delicious. We picked up a bag of pitted Medjool dates. We've enjoyed dates since our days living in the Middle East. We like to slice dates in half lengthwise, then stuff them with cream cheese. It's a great snack.

Store at Martha's Gardens.

Date trees at Martha's  Gardens

More date trees at Martha's Gardens with some rugged mountains as a backdrop.

Yuma is a haven for winter visitors, especially those in RVs. Many come here year after year to avoid cold weather elsewhere. They get to play golf here all winter, enjoy the out of doors, eat in some very good restaurants, and take things easy in a relatively relaxed environment.

And there is much more to Yuma, but in 3 days this is about all we could do?

Yuma Territorial Prison

As a student of the American West, whenever I’ve heard the name Yuma, I’ve always thought of the Territorial Prison located there. So when we decided to spend a few days in Yuma, the first place I wanted to see was the Yuma Territorial Prison.

Entrance to the park, with the watch tower located atop the water supply.

The prison opened for business on July 1, 1876, when 7 men who helped build the facility were locked into their cells. The prison would continue to operate for 33 years, during which time it would house a total of 3,069 prisoners, including 29 women.


The prison is perched on a bluff above the Colorado River. The historic downtown district of Yuma is located just to the west. In the early days of the prison, the citizens downtown could easily see the prison; perhaps its dominating presence helped keep some of them honest.


The tour of the prison begins at the gift shop. We purchased our 2 tickets for a total of $12 and were led outside and told briefly about what to expect. We began by climbing the main tower, which was actually located atop the prison’s water supply. At the top, we had a commanding view to the Yuma East Wetlands restoration project.


Back down on ground, we walked through the Sally Port, the check point through which prisoners entered and left the prison. The most notorious attempted prison escape at Yuma occurred here when several prisoners took the superintendent hostage and tried to force their way out. 4 of them were killed and the other captured.

The Sally Port, with the museum directly behind.

Just beyond the Sally Port is the prison museum. This building is located on the site of the original prison mess, and was built during the Great Depression, long after the prison had closed its doors to guests. A 7 or 8 minute film in the museum runs constantly, and is a great way to get some background on the prison.

Interior of museum. There are many interesting items here. Be sure to watch the informative film.

Continue through the museum out the back door and you will see the remaining cell blocks. At one time, the prison hospital was located atop these cell blocks, but that structure is now long gone. All of the cells except a few are locked, but step up to the bars. Some of the cells have audio recordings that are activated once you approach the cell. The “voices” tell prisoner stories. 6 prisoners were usually kept in each cell. During times of overcrowding, many were confined in the corridors.

The remaining cell block. The hospital was actually built on top, but it is long gone.

A typical cell. 6 prisoners would share this cell and the single chamber pot.

Just beyond the first cell block is the “Dark Cell,” which was carved out of a caliche hill. The “Dark Cell” was a type of punishment. Step through the door and down a 10 foot or so hallway. At the end is an enlarged cell. There is no window, so the only light is from the door down the hall. Often several prisoners at a time would be put in this cell, and some slow learners had to be housed here repeatedly. I was in there for only a few seconds and was happy to leave. I cannot imagine being in there for days on end.

Entrance to the dark cell, which was simply cut out of rock.

The short hall area leading to the cell. The door provides the only light for the cell.

The actual cell. You can see why it is called the "dark cell."

I enjoyed our visit to the prison, but I was happy to escape.

On the Road: Laughlin, NV, to Yum, AZ

We’re at Sunset Palms RV Park in Yuma, Arizona. It’s almost 200 miles from our previous location in Laughlin.


We left Laughlin KOA early yesterday morning and crossed the Colorado River into Arizona. We took Arizona 95 south to Needles, California, where we crossed the Colorado River once again. So, within about 20 minutes of leaving, we had been in 3 different states: Nevada, Arizona, and California.


We drove through Needles on old Route 66, where we then took US 95 south. This is a busy highway with numerous commercial trucks and RVs. It is only 2 lanes with no shoulders, and there are no businesses along the way. The scenery is almost identical to what we’ve been experiencing for our entire stay in the Southwest. For the entire 50 miles, there were no passing lanes, and the speed limit is 55 for trucks and RVs while it is 65 for other traffic. For the first 20 miles or so, we had a slow and gradual climb up a slope. After reaching the summit, it is then a gradual slope 30 miles down to Vidal Junction, which is a 4 way stop sign, an inspection station, and 1 or 2 businesses.

We turned east on California 62 for 17 miles where we once again crossed the Colorado River, putting us back into Arizona at Parker. Parker is a busy community which is popular with snow birds and other RVers. It’s a good place to stop for gasoline, food, or other supplies.


But we continued south, now on Arizona 95, another 2 lane highway. It is 37 miles from Parker to Quartzsite, and there are 2 passing lanes on this stretch. Once again, this is a busy highway. As we neared Quartzsite, we began seeing a few saguaro cacti scattered about. Quartzsite is an interesting town. Fewer than 4,000 people live there, but the town is a magnet for RVers. I’m not sure what attracts them, though I’m sure the mild winter climate is a major reason. The town is pretty isolated from metropolitan centers, but that doesn’t seem to matter. RV parks line Arizona 95 on the north. We stopped for gas here, then crossed Interstate 10 and picked up US 95. As we left Quartzsite, we saw RVs parked all in the dessert along the highway on the south side of town.


From Quartzsite, it is 73 miles to where we turned off on the east side of Yuma. Once again we found ourselves on a busy 2 lane road, and we saw only 1 passing lane along this stretch. Much of the time, there is no shoulder on the highway. Nearing Yuma, the Yuma Proving Ground appears on the west side of the road. Gradually, crops appear on both sides of the highway, and then we crossed the Gila River.


There were few places to stop along our 200 mile route, other than the towns indicated above. Also, we did not see a single roadside park even though more than half our route was along a US highway. Much of the route is hilly making passing difficult, so when driving an RV traffic will undoubtedly pile up behind you. But the road surface for almost the entire route is good quality, so the ride is smooth. Also, I've tried ro be clear labeling the highways. There are 2 highways using the same number. One is Arizona 95, which is contained entirely in Arizona. The other is US 95, which passes through California and Arizona.