Goodbye to a Good Man

I was saddened by the recent death of Pete Seeger. He lived a long and eventful life, though, and no man can ask for more. He was 94 at his death.

Seeger was an activist who stood firmly on his convictions. He played an influential role in the Civil Rights Movement as well as opposing the Viet Nam War. In his later years, he provided leadership in the effort to clean up the heavily polluted Hudson River. Although many are not aware that he served his country in World War II, many more are aware that he was blacklisted during the Red Scare years of the 1950s and early 1960s.

But for me, my memories of Pete Seeger are all about the music, and I think he would like that. I've always liked folk music. I love ballads and songs that tell stories, and much folk music does exactly that. But folk music often expresses the feelings, emotions, and concerns of common folk, so it often has a real message to share, and that elevates it to a higher plane.

Among my favorite folks singers have been The Kingston Trio, The Brothers Four, Peter, Paul, and Mary, Gordon Lightfoot, Joan Baez, and the Seekers. I also enjoy more recent artists who have added a bit of rock to their folk influences, such as Crosby, Stills, and Nash, the Byrds, and the Buffalo Springfield. 

Seeger was noted not only for writing many original songs, but he also revived many old and forgotten songs, often with new arrangements or new verses and other changes. Among the many songs he authored are Turn, Turn, Turn which the Byrds made famous in the mid 1960s, and two of my personal favorites, If I Had a Hammer  and Where Have All the Flowers Gone? During the Civil Rights Movement, he revived We Shall Overcome, and this song became a uniting force in that movement.

Many artists have been inspired and influenced by Seeger, including Bob Dylan, Joan Baez, Judy Collins, Roger McGuinn (the Byrds), Peter, Paul, and Mary, and countless others.

He married Toshi-Aline Ota in 1943. She preceded him in death, passing away in July 2013. I think that sort of commitment says something about a person. Mr. Seeger leaves behind quite a legacy.

Brrr!

It's 10 degrees in San Angelo as I write this. It's been a cold winter with several days dipping into the teens. I know it's not as bad as what the folks up north are getting, but it's colder than I like it.

Tomorrow, it's expected to be 71 degrees. That's a difference of 61 degrees.

I thought last winter when we were living in our travel trailer was bad, but it has been colder this winter. I'm thankful to be in a warm, snug house.

On the Road: San Angelo, TX, to Fort Lancaster, TX, and Back

As a general rule, I enjoy driving around West Texas. Roads are usually very good, traffic is normally light, and the scenery can be quite impressive. On our recent trip to Fort Lancaster and back, we were fortunate to see some good scenery.

Our 267 mile route for the day

We left San Angelo about 8:30 AM and headed southwest on US 67 for just over 50 miles. This stretch of the highway is two-lane for the most part, but there are numerous passing lanes in both directions. Green signs along the way indicate upcoming passing lanes and give mileage to them. I think this is done to encourage drivers to be patient and wait for these passing lanes. On this stretch, though, that doesn't work well. With the recent oil boom in this part of West Texas, there is increased traffic on the roads. These folks are here to make money; many of them seem to be very aggressive and quite impatient. It can be a stressful drive.

We lived in Ozona for 8 years during the 1990s, so we drove this route frequently on our trips to and from San Angelo. It used to be a pleasant drive, and few cars were encountered. Most of the traffic then was either folks like us from outlying towns heading to Angelo, or tourists traveling the countryside. Today, this is a road I will avoid unless I absolutely must take it.

After about 20 miles, we passed through the small community of Mertzon. About 30 miles later, we arrived in Barnhart, where we turned south on Texas 163. Both Mertzon and Barnhart are showing the affects of the boom. There are new RV parks, new convenience stores, new eateries, and lots and lots of oil field services along the highway. White limestone dust seems to cover everything as it is used for side roads and parking lots.

We followed Texas 163 south for 16 miles, then turned west on US 190 for a 43 mile drive to Iraan. Traffic gradually diminished along this highway until we shared the roadway with only local traffic (ranchers, for example) and the occasional tourist, like us. After about 25 or 30 miles, the landscape begins to change and becomes more rugged, with occasional canyons visible off to the side. The road dips down for a few miles into Live Oak Draw, then back up. Then it begins a dip again, this time into the Pecos River Valley. On the down slope, we turned off the road into a roadside park to snap a few pictures of the valley.

The Pecos River Valley as seen from a roadside park along US 190. You can see the small community of Iraan in the distance. The country along the river is like this all the way south until you get near the Rio Grande, where it becomes even more dramatic.

Following our break, we continued to descend into the valley, eventually crossing the Pecos River and arriving in Iraan, pronounced in 3 syllables as Ira Ann. The town was named for Ira and Ann Yates who owned the ranch land upon which the town sits. Iraan is a small community of just over 1,000 people. During the oil boom of the 1920s, V. T. Hamlin lived and worked here. Many of you old timers will know Hamlin as the creator of the old comic strip, Alley Oop. It is said he got the idea for the strip while working here.

Alley Oop Land in Iraan, Texas

From Iraan, we parallel the Pecos River south on Texas 349 for 21 miles to the dwindling community of Sheffield. U.S. 290 runs through Sheffield. This highway was replaced for the most part by I-10, which bypasses Sheffield a few miles to the north. Today, travelers along the interstate don't see this community or even know it is there; as a result, the town has little economic revenue.

At Sheffield, we pick up U.S. 290 and head east for a few miles and stop at Fort Lancaster. After leaving the fort, we climb up the east side of the Pecos River Valley to the most impressive views of the trip. Atop the ridge is a roadside park where we've picnicked a time or two in the past.

The storied Pecos River on US 290. It's not much of river. Water upstream is drained for agriculture; by the time the river reaches Texas, there isn't much in it.

From the park, US 290 winds up the Pecos cliffs. The little roadside park is at the top of the ridge, just left of center in this photo. Notice the rock foundations added to support the roadway.

Pecos River Valley from the roadside park atop the ridge.

After leaving the roadside park, we followed 290 east until it merges with I-10, and then headed into Ozona. We drove around Ozona for a short while. It was our home for many years in the 1990s. Courtney started the 4th grade there and we remained until she graduated. I guess it is the closest thing to a hometown that Courtney has.

After a short tour of the town, we stopped in at El Chato's for lunch. El Chato's was one of our favorite eating places when we lived there. Now, there is better Tex-Mex in the world, but when you live in a small town and your dining choices are limited, you realize that the food there is really pretty good. When we lived there, I really enjoyed their hamburgers and considered getting one. Instead, I opted for my old standard, their combination plate with soft tacos and cheese enchiladas. Donna had a taco salad. Yeah, we've had better, but the food is really decent. The tomatoes and lettuce were fresh, service was good, and the food was piping hot, the way Mexican food should be.

After leaving Ozona, we head north on Texas 163, this time turning east on US 190 to go to Eldorado, the little West Texas town that gained fame in recent years as the home of the Yearning for Zion Ranch. More recently, the little community was in the news for Steve Fromholz, noted musician and former Poet Laureate of Texas, who died near there in a hunting accident on January 19.

At Eldorado, we picked up US 277 for our return to San Angelo. It was a good day. We got to see some wonderful scenery, we visited our past in Ozona, and we toured a historic Texas fort and got some fresh air.

Day Trip: Fort Lancaster State Historic Site

I love visiting old forts in Texas. For quite a while now, I've wanted to visit Fort Lancaster State Historic Site in western Crockett County just east of the small community of Sheffield. On a recent mild and sunny day, we made the trek there and toured the grounds of the old military outpost.

Fort Lancaster was established in 1858 to protect the overland route between San Antonio and El Paso. The life of the post was short-lived, and it was finally abandoned by 1874. At its peak, it consisted of 25 buildings. Originally, the post was manned by infantry. Following the War-Between-the-States, Buffalo Soldiers of the 9th Cavalry stationed at Fort Stockton farther west rotated to garrison the post. Fort Lancaster is the only Texas military fort that suffered a direct attack by Native Americans when a large force of Kickapoos and Lipan Apaches assaulted the post.

If you visit the post, do not expect to see restored buildings like you would at Fort Concho or Fort Davis. What you'll find instead are ruins. No building on the post is intact, and many are merely a jumble of stones. All of the remains are identified, though, and the layout of the post is clearly visible.

We began our tour at the Visitor Center, where a few exhibits are available. Be aware that this park is operated by the Texas Historical Commission, not the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department. So, if you have a State Park Pass, as we do, it will do you no good here. Admission is $4 per person.

Visitor Center at Fort Lancaster State Historical Site

Exit the Visitor Center at the rear and the post stands before you. Be sure to look at the display just before leaving the Visitor Center to help plan your route. Also, pick up a Visitor's Guide, which includes a map. Determine the route you wish to follow and then take off.

Below are a few photos we took during our tour. One of the best things about this post is its location and setting. The views are really great. The post lies in the Pecos River Valley near Live Oak Creek. This is a broad valley with upper elevations as much as 600 or 700 feet above the valley floor.

This was Company K Barracks, and it is the most recognizable structure of the post. In fact, it graces the cover of the Visitor's Guide. The photo looks west across the Pecos River Valley.

This is the hospital, and it is pretty typical of what you will see in the park. The outline of the building is clear, and that's about it. Some buildings are just piles of stones with no clear detail.

This is the lime kiln, used to produce lime for construction of the stone buildings.

The blacksmith shop

Another view of Company K Barracks

The mess hall

This was the bakery. Today, it's merely a jumble of rocks with no clear outline or form. Notice the background.

If you are traveling along I-10 between Ozona and Fort Stockton, take old Highway 290 near Sheffield and take a walk through history. The scenery is impressive, and the old post provides a glimpse into the past in this rugged country.

Hike Report: O. C. Fisher Lake Dam

While hiking in certain areas of San Angelo State Park, we could see people walking, jogging, and riding bicycles atop the dam. So, we investigated and have recently begun walking on the O. C. Fisher Dam in San Angelo. Now, such a walk really isn't a hike, at least, not in my book. But, I'm going to treat it as such today.

The dam is accessed off Mercedes Street in northwest San Angelo. A gate blocks access so that cars can not drive out on the dam. However, there is an open gate for pedestrians and bike riders.

Gate at southern end of O.C. Fisher Dam

The surface is paved and flat, an ideal environment for bike riders. Mileage is spray-painted on the surface so that you know how far you have gone. The farther out you venture, the more the weeds and grass have encroached on the roadway so that the walking area is narrower at 2 miles than it is at the beginning.

On the day I took these pictures, we went out 1.5 miles and returned for a 3 mile total. It was a warm day, very clear and sunny, but the wind was blowing a steady 20 mph or so atop the dam. A road runner (chaparral) darted across our path about a quarter mile out. On a previous trip in the early morning, we saw deer grazing on both sides of the dam.

This is a great walking environment because there is no traffic, and the views are great. So, no more talking from me, I'll just show you some pictures.

As REK says, the road goes on forever. It's straight for about 1.75 miles before curving left.

This shot shows the curve of the dam as well as its height.

Mileage spray-painted on the surface.

Near the curve, you can see a bit of water in the lake. The paved area at the lower left is a boat launch in the park. Bring your boat and let's go skiing. All the area to the left (west) is San Angelo State Park.

This photo shows 2 separate camping areas in the park. In an ideal world, they would be separated by an arm of the lake. Notice the mesas in the far background. I do love this country, as rough as it can be.

Downtown San Angelo. We don't have many tall buildings, but we do have a lovely and active downtown district along the North Concho River.

It's a mile and a half back to the gate. Notice how the grass has encroached on the pavement a few feet as compared to the pictures as the top.

Numerous soccer pitches line the east side of the dam.

As we approached the gate at the completion of our hike, we noticed some activity. A vehicle had pulled up to the gate, and I could see people dashing about. As we reached the gate, we saw a young woman lying on her back at the bottom of the east side of the dam. Apparently, she had attempted to ride her back through the narrow gate and lost control, causing her to tumble down the slope. We offered our assistance but were told all was being done. As we were leaving the area, we met an ambulance that had been called to the scene. It kind of reminded us of our trip to McKinney Falls State Park just over a year ago when a young lady tumbled down some rocks and had to be rescued.

Hike Report: Multi-Trail Hike in the South Section of San Angelo State Park

A few days ago, the weather was sunny and warm, so Donna and I set out for a short hike in the south section of San Angelo State Park. As I stated in my previous post, we've hiked all the trails in the park, so to keep things fresh, we now combine different trails and try to go in different directions than we have previously gone.

We parked our car in the parking lot at Red Arroyo Camping Area, next to the playground. (See official park map.) We set out in a southwesterly direction on the Tasajillo Flats Trail through dense patches of prickly pear and mesquites and other desert type vegetation.

Donna at the Tasajillo Flats Trailhead.

After a quarter mile or so, we veered off in a more westerly direction on the Horny Toad Trail. This trail topped out on ridge with good views before descending into an arroyo abounding with mesquite thickets.

View from ridge on the Horny Toad Trail affords a good look at the nearby Highland Range Subdivision, which backs up to the southwestern boundary of the park.

Trail winds through mesquites and prickly pear. In the summer, the mesquites in the lower arroyos will provide a bit of shade from the sun, but in winter, they are barren of any leaves.

The Horny Toad Trail is pretty typical of most trails in the park. It winds up and down slopes, through mesquite thickets and prickly pears, and the trail is sometimes soft dirt and other times loose rock.

After winding through the arroyo, the Horny Toad Trail then skirts back up a slope, eventually topping out on a ridge with good views in several directions.

View from a ridge on the Horny Toad Trail. Looking north, the O.C. Fisher Lake Dam is visible, as well as a line of hills stretching west.

At the top of the ridge, the trail is intersected by the shorter Talley Valley Trail coming in from the north. From this point, the trail skirts a switchback and works down to a paved roadway where the Horny Toad Trail ends and the Nature Trail begins.

The Nature Trail starts out pretty straight on a surface of red dirt. Mesquite trees cluster about the trail.

Red dirt trail cuts a straight path through the mesquites on the Nature Trail.

After a quarter to half mile, the Tasajillo Flats Trail intersects from the north. About 150 yards or so past that, the Nature Trail takes a sharp turn to the northeast. However, we continued straight on the old Nature Loop Trail, which is not marked on any of my maps. This trail hit the paved park road at the entrance to the Isabelle Harte Park. (see official park map)

Entrance to Isabelle Harte Park, which is a part of the larger San Angelo State Park.

At this point, we followed the paved road leading into Isabelle Hart. Just before reaching the picnic tables, we turned right on the Winding Snake Trail (or it could be the Chaparral Trail). This trail began the return to our vehicle, and headed in a southerly direction. After about a third or more of a mile, it crossed a decaying paved road no longer available to traffic. At this point, the trail is certainly the Chaparral Trail. The remains of the old Red Dam are visible at this point to the north.

Red Dam (right center), with O.C. Fisher Dam in the background.

Looking across Red Arroyo from Isabelle Harte Park to Red Arroyo Camping Area. The buffalo in the center of the picture are not real, but metal silhouettes that look pretty authentic. A pavilion is at far right center. Note RVs in upper left. This is the campground where we used to camp.

All in all, I'd say we covered about 4 miles, give or take a little. It was a pleasant hike with perfect temps, though the wind did blow pretty hard at times -- but then, the wind always blows pretty hard in West Texas.

One of the great things about this park is that there are so many trails, which allows hikers to put together trail combinations to get a distance they are comfortable with. None of the trails are really strenuous, and there are really no steep ups and downs though there are some climbs throughout the park.

Hike Report: The Trails of San Angelo State Park

Yesterday was a beautiful sunny day in West Texas with temps eventually reaching the low 70s. The trails of San Angelo State Park beckoned to us.

We've hiked all the trails of the park at some time or another, and most of our hikes are recorded on my website at https://sites.google.com/site/kcdonnagoodlife/hiking. Since we've hiked all the trails, one way to keep things interesting is to hike a trail in the opposite direction, or combine trails. The park has more than 50 miles of trails for hikers, bikers, and equestrians, so we're usually able to put together something that keeps hiking in the park fresh. These trails are not indicated on the official park map, but a laminated map made available by the Friends of San Angelo State Park can be purchased at the park office for a nominal fee.

The park has two sections, a north section and a south section. The trails available in the park are as follows:

• Bad Lands (North)
• Bell's Point (South)
• Chaparral (South)
• Dinosaur (North)
• Flintstone Village (North)
• Horny Toad (South)
• Ghost Camp (North)
• Javelina (North)
• Lanky Lackey (South)
• Nature (South)
• Playground (South)
• Potts Creek (South)
• Red Dam Loop (South)
• River Bend (North)
• River Bend Park (North)
• Roller Coaster Hill (South)
• Scenic Loop (North)
• Shady (North)
• Slick Rock (North)
• Strawberry (South)
• Talley Valley (South)
• Tasajilla Flats (South)
• Turkey Creek (South)
• Winding Snake (South)

The two sections of the park are connected, so it is possible to travel by foot, horse, or bike from the south side to the north side.

The trails, of course, vary in length.  Some may be a few miles in length (Roller Coaster, River Bend, etc.) while others, like Talley Valley, are less than a mile. Some of the trails are very easy to hike, while others cover rocky terrain and steeper slopes. Most of the trails provide you with a big sky and distant vistas; however, some trails dip into ravines and mesquite covered canyons. Trails in the north section along the river wind through native pecans and other trees, while trails away from the river may have no trees at all, especially along the ridges.

Overall, there is good variety for hiking here. Whether you want a short hike or a long hike, you should be able to find something to suit you.


Because the park once was an Army Corps of Engineers park, there are numerous "parks" within the park. Over the years as the water level of O.C. Fisher Reservoir has declined, many of the individual parks have become abandoned and fallen into disrepair. These appear as ghost towns that you may suddenly come upon while hiking on the back trails. However, restroom facilities at some of these appear to be maintained at various levels, and water is available at some locations, such as Bell's Point. Picnic tables abound along the trails, and most still have their covers, making good spots for stopping to rest or eat.

In the next entry, I'll report the short hike we took yesterday, which covered all or part of the following trails: Tasajilla Flats, Horny Toad, Nature, and Chaparral, as well as a half-mile stroll along a paved road.