Hiking Report: Enchanted Rock State Natural Area

It's hard for me to go to Fredericksburg without hiking at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area, located about 16 miles north of Fredericksburg on Ranch Road 965 (North Milam Street in Fredericksburg). We've hiked the loop trail there twice, but the place looks different each time we go there, depending on the time of year, the weather, and other conditions.

According to the Texas Parks and Wildlife website, Enchanted Rock is a "huge, pink granite exfoliation dome, that rises 425 feet above ground, 1825 feet above sea level, and covers 640 acres. It is one of the largest batholiths (underground rock formation uncovered by erosion) in the United States."

Actually, the park consists of 5 "rocks", or hills. They are, from west to east, Little Rock, Enchanted Rock, Turkey Peak, Freshman Mountain, and Buzzard's Roost. All reach an altitude of at least 1500 feet.

If you look at a map of the park, you can trace our path to some degree. We began on the west, following the loop trail. Near Moss Lake, we split from the Loop Trail and hiked into Echo Canyon and spent some time there. From Echo Canyon, we followed the Base Trail around the base of Enchanted Rock. All along the base, we took several little trails up to the base of Enchanted Rock and inspected numerous interesting rock formations. These trails also lead to where rock climbers begin their ascent up the rock.

Farther to the east, we followed Turkey Pass Trail, we took us between Enchanted Rock and Freshman Mountain and Turkey Peak. After passing Frog Pond and crossing Sandy Creek, we then reconnected with the Loop Trail to end our hike.

Granite dome of Little Rock

This picture of Little Rock shows how the "exfoliated" rocks gradually slide down the hill side.

Monarch butterflies seemed to like these flowers

Donna, with Moss Lake and Little Rock in the background

Can you see the trail? Much of the trail is on granite; there are wooden markers and rock cairns to locate the trail at these times.

These rocks are in Echo Canyon. You can actually walk between the larger rocks; you can see the top of the slit behind the smaller rock in front.

Enchanted Rock. Rock climbers from all over like to climb these slopes. Too steep for me!

Another example of "exfoliating" rocks sliding down the side of Enchanted Rock.

And this is what it looks like when those rocks reach bottom. Of course, this can take dozens, hundreds, even thousands of years.

View from the top of Turkey Peak Pass

Wildseed Farms

If you like wildflowers and gardening, then you have to stop in at Wildseed Farms on US 290 about 6 or 7 miles east of Fredericksburg. There are 200 acres of wildflowers here, and different flowers appear at different times of the year.

When you tire of wandering the grounds admiring the color of the wildflowers, then stroll through the Market Center, where you can find other plants, seeds, pots, and just about any other item appropriate for a garden. If you get tired, then stop in at the Brewbonnet Biergarten for snacks, ice cream, sandwiches, and other refreshments, including beer and wine.

But the best thing about the Wildseed Farms is outside. Below are some of the pictures I took while there.

Wildseed Farms Market Center

A field of wildflowers

A field of wildflowers, perhaps primrose

Petunias

Red Poppies

Rocket Larkspur

Fredericksburg RV Park

We left Junction on Thursday, April 12, for the second destination of our journey -- Fredericksburg RV Park in Fredericksburg, Texas. We would stay here for 4 nights.

Although the park has good amenities -- cable TV, WiFi, clean laundry facilities, clean and private bathrooms -- it is not the type of place I prefer to stay. Sites are very close together, and no fires are allowed. There is a lack of privacy since RVs are so close together. But the amenities are good, and it is located conveniently to many area attractions.

We always try to get a feel for the community in the RV parks where we stay, and this park definitely has a community. Although many residents are short term, like us, many are here for months on end. Across from us, for example, was a couple from Ontario, Canada. Several residents had wooden porches constructed for their RVs, so they were certainly here for the long haul.

But many of the residents were like us and were here only for a short time. To our north was a row of Born Free class C motorhomes, who were in town for a rally. During the 4 nights we were there, we had 3 different neighbors in the site just to our east. On the last night, a retired army officer and his wife pulled in. They had come from San Diego, where they were trying to sell their home now that they planned to RV full time. They were stopping to see friends in San Antonio, then continuing on to Georgia to a college graduation of a relative.

And that is one of the most interesting things about these parks -- the people you meet. I also enjoy watching how other folks set up and take down their rigs when they arrive and leave. I pick up a few tricks from time to time by doing this. And I enjoy looking over the gear and equipment they use.

But really, we just more or less bide our time in these commercial parks. What we really enjoy is staying in state parks where we are closer to nature and the sites normally are a bit roomier. But for 4 nights, we'll make the best of this park while we enjoy the sites around Fredericksburg.

Fort McKavett

Fort McKavett is near Junction -- about 40 miles or so one way -- so we drove over during our stay in Junction to tour the old fort that General William T. Sheridan once called the "prettiest post in Texas."

Located on Ranch Road 864 just south of US 190 between Menard and Eldorado, Fort McKavett was -- and still is -- an isolated post. Established in 1852, the fort was one of many located along the Texas frontier to protect settlers and travelers from Indian depredations. It was abandoned prior to the Civil War, then reopened in 1868 to serve mainly as a supply depot in the war against Comanches who had made inroads during the Civil War. Following the end of Indian hostilities, the post was finally abandoned for good in 1883. In 1968, the post was purchased by the state and was, for years, part of the state park system. Today it is operated by the Texas Historical Commission.

There are quite a few surviving buildings at the post. It is located on a rise -- it would be too presumptuous to call it a hill -- and it affords a commanding view of the surrounding area.

The post hospital today serves as the park headquarters. The white buildings to the left are the privy on the left and the "dead room" (morgue) on the right.

Captain's Quarters at opposite end of post from hospital.

Ruins of commanding officer's quarters

Lieutenant's Row facing the parade ground

These are the only barracks that have been restored. They are furnished and open for viewing.

Post headquarters

Donna found this cactus growing out of a rock wall

After touring the post, we then took a walk along the Government Road Nature Trail. This road, built by the fort's soldiers, ran from the fort down to the springs, lime kiln, and rock quarry. The springs are actually the headwaters of the San Saba River, and they provided the post with its fresh water supply. The lime kiln provided limestone and quicklime for the construction of the fort. Of course, the quarry provided the stones used in the construction of the post.

Pretty patch of bluebonnets along the nature trail

Lime Kiln

Spring and headwaters of the San Saba River

Rock Quarry

Bluebonnets set against limestone outcropping

Donna in a patch of bluebonnets

Hiking South Llano River State Park

We had scheduled Tuesday, April 10, for a long hike at South Llano River State Park, about 3 or 4 miles south of Junction on US 377. We used to camp here in our folding trailer about 20 years ago when our daughter was in junior high. We spent many a summer day in the cool, clear, spring-fed waters of the South Llano River, floating down the river from the low-water crossing to a take out point farther downstream. Deer and turkey are prevalent throughout the park; in fact, a section along the river is "one of the most substantial and oldest winter turkey roosts in the central portion of the state". [TPWD website] From October to March, this area of the park is closed to visitors so the turkeys will not be disturbed.

The southern part of the park is actually the Walter Buck Wildlife Management Area. It is closed periodically throughout the year as public hunts are conducted. This section of the park consists of over 2100 acres, and most of the trails are contained in this area.

As luck would have it. a public hunt was underway the day we showed up, so we were unable to hike the southern portion of the park, which was our plan. Instead, we had to content ourselves to hike the area along the river. This section of the park has just over 500 acres, so hiking is limited. We ended up only hiking about 4 miles in all.

The park was lush after the wet winter and recent rains, so everything looked healthy. We were surprised by how much the park has changed over the years. For example, we were unable to locate the spot where we would take out after floating the river.

Below are some pictures we snapped during our short hike. Hopefully, we will return soon and hike the southern portion of the park.

The South Llano River, looking west.

Native pecans along the river, where the turkeys roost and feed

Bird blind just north of the campground

Buck Lake, north of the campground

Low-water crossing at park entrance. We used to put in on the other side of the bridge, then shoot under the bridge and down the river for a leisurely float. Good times!

Wildflower Tour 2012

On Monday, April 9, Donna and I headed to the Hill Country for our "Wildflower Tour 2012". First stop was Junction, Texas. To get to Junction, we retraced the route we took when heading to the Garner area in late February. See "Southern Hill Country Trip, 2012" for more details.

Our destination in Junction was the North Llano River RV Park, located on the south bank of the North Llano River on the north edge of Junction. We planned to spend 3 nights there. That would give us the chance to do a little hiking and a little sight-seeing before moving on to our next destination.

The park there was formerly a KOA park, but it is now privately owned. We enjoyed our stay there. Sites are spacious, and most -- if not all -- are pull-thrus. Cable TV and Internet are included in the price. However, during our stay, the wireless was not working well; staff were attempting to remedy the problem and were in the process of replacing the router. Bathrooms and laundry facilities there were quite clean and well maintained.

Donna spent quite a bit of time fishing in the river, but did not catch anything of note.

Good trees and spacious sites. Our trailer is the one with the picture window at the back near the center of the picture.

Donna relaxing in the shade of a pecan tree at our trailer. Note the North Llano River in the background.

Our view to the west.

Junction has much to recommend it. It is an easy overnight stop for east/west travelers with several nice hotels and many good eating places. On our first day there, we picked up some delicious sausage at Lum's, a locally owned BBQ place we've frequented for years. There is also a Cooper's BBQ along the interstate. This is part of the Cooper's Old Time Pit BBQ chain. If you like a strong smoke taste to your meat -- like I do -- then stop in at any of the Cooper's locations.

In addition to BBQ, there are other good places in town to eat, most notably Isaaks for regular Ameircan style dining and La Familia for Mexican food.

The North and South Llano rivers merge in the downtown Junction area, thus the name of the town. The area is covered by impressive hills, rich and fertile valleys, and spring fed streams. It really is a lovely area.

The park appears to cater more to overnight travelers rather than to long-term residents, as some RV parks do. Each evening as we would sit out, we would be entertained by a parade of new arrivals pulling in for an overnight stay. 

Gardening

Have you started your garden yet?

Donna and I have a small garden. So far, we've planted red and 1015 onions, radishes, beets, lettuce, tomatoes, bell and jalapeno peppers, carrots, cucumbers, and some herbs.

We've been eating some radishes from the garden; I love their crispy, fresh taste. We can probably start harvesting "green" onions now while waiting for the bulk of the onion crop to mature.

I've never had too much luck with tomatoes; I think I've always placed mine where they get too much sun. So this year, I set up a screen to protect them from the sun, and I believe this is having a very positive effect. When I cleared my garden area, I did so along the fence line on our northeast side. As a result, plants there receive a lot of sun, especially afternoon sun. In addition, the sun reflects off the fence, adding even more heat. The screen will help give the tomatoes and peppers some relief. I also have been saving coffee grounds for quite a while, and I'm conducting a little test. I've given half the tomato plants a generous helping of the coffee grounds, and expect them to get a little extra boost. I've also used grass clippings to mulch around all the plants.

Tomatoes under the sun screen. This was taken about 2 weeks ago. Today, the plants are about twice this size and covered with blooms.

Red onions on left, 1015s on right. Reds are farther along.

We've also added to our cactus bed lately. We've added 2 mountain laurels and 2 oleanders. Mountain laurels can really be beautiful in bloom. Our cactus bed is now almost complete, and in a couple of years it should have some good color from the purple sage, mountain laurels, and oleanders.

Mountain laurels in full bloom. These are at the LBJ National Historic Site in Johnson City.