Coke County Wildflowers

Rick Smith is a feature writer for our local newspaper, The San Angelo Standard Times. I've enjoyed Rick's columns since we first moved to the area in the early 1990s. Recently, Rick has written two columns about wildflowers. Back on March 29th, Rick wrote "Hills Are Alive with Wildflowers" about the best places to view wildflowers in the Hill Country.

In yesterday's paper, Rick wrote "Stop and Smell the Bluebonnets, Near or Far". The article outlines a route heading north out of San Angelo up to the neighboring community of Robert Lee in Coke County that might offer the best wildflower viewing in the Concho Valley. Sounds like a day trip to me, so Donna and I hopped in the truck this morning and went in search of West Texas bluebonnets.

Robert Lee is about 30 miles north of San Angelo on state highway 208. It's a nice drive. About 10 miles out, the country begins to change. There seem to be more trees in that area, and there are certainly more hills.

High point about halfway to Robert Lee. You can see the highway curving in the distance.

 We saw isolated patches of wildflowers, mainly bluebonnets, from time to time on our trip. The best area was just outside of Robert Lee on a side road.

Bluebonnets along FM 2034, just south of Robert Lee. This picture looks due south.

Close up of an isolated stand of bluebonnets

After viewing the wildflowers, we drove around Robert Lee. We have passed through here numerous times in the past, but have never taken the time to look around town. Robert Lee is a small community of about 1,000 people, and the school facility is very attractive. There are few businesses in town, and I would suppose the residents drive to San Angelo for almost everything.

The town is located just north of the Colorado River, which is little more than a ditch at this location. Still, it is significant enough to have formed Lake E. V. Spence just to the west of the city. Unfortunately, that lake is now almost empty, containing less than 1% of its capacity. On top of that, the lake has provided the town its only source of water for years, so Robert Lee is suffering greatly now. The town has rushed to complete a 12-mile pipeline to the neighboring community of Bronte for water; until its completion, water has had to be trucked in.

In the meantime, residents of Robert Lee have cut back water use 80%.

We really need some extended rains.

New Website

I've started a new website, and I invite you to take a peek at it. It's called "The Good Life", and you can find it at https://sites.google.com/site/kcdonnagoodlife/. There is also a link in the upper-right corner of this page.

I've enjoyed this blog and plan to continue posting entries, but I wanted a better way to organize all my interests, and a website seemed the best way. I only have a few pages thus far, but you can get a good idea of what I'm hoping to accomplish. For example, one page will be devoted to hiking. There you can find reviews of the many trails Donna and I have hiked in recent years. I don't have all our reviews posted yet, but I'm working on it. And I have lots of pictures from hikes I never wrote any text for. I'll go back, write a short entry for each hike, and then post some representative pictures.

Another page focuses on the places we have traveled in the past year or so.

Many of the items link back to the blog. For example, some of the hike reviews link back to reviews I have posted on the blog, and the same with our travels.

So I invite you to drop in from time to time and keep up with what is going on in our lives.

Glen Campbell

On Friday, March 16, Donna and I journeyed to Midland, where we lived from 1997 to 2002, and watched Glen Campbell in concert at the Wagner Noel Performing Arts Center, located about halfway between Midland and Odessa.

Donna is the one who discovered Mr. Campbell would be playing nearby, and she made all the arrangements for us to attend. I'm grateful she did. I'm glad we attended, for two reasons.

First, when growing up, I was a fan of folk music, and I enjoyed the Smothers Brothers as well as other folk artists. Yeah, they did a lot of brotherly bantering in their shows, but they were -- and are -- talented musicians. They had a show on CBS in those days, and I watched it regularly. In 1968, Mr. Campbell hosted a summer replacement show for the Smothers Brothers Comedy Hour, and I began watching it. I enjoyed his hits of those days, such as "Wichita Lineman", "By the Time I Get to Phoenix", "Galveston", and "Gentle on My Mind". Although most people are unaware, Campbell played some for the Beach Boys prior to this. He played some on tour and was a session musician for the Beach Boys best album, Pet Sounds. I lost interest in Campbell during his "fling" time with Tanya Tucker, and I felt like his behavior during that time was at great odds with the image he had cultivated prior to that.

The second reason I'm glad I attended this performance is that Campbell has been diagnosed with Alzheimer's Disease, and this is his farewell tour. My father suffered through several years of dementia prior to his death, so I feel a bit of camaraderie for Campbell and his family.

The evening began with an opening set of 5 or 6 songs from a young group called Instant People. I did not know it until later in the show, but three of the 5 young people in that band are children of Glen Campbell. Click here to see them perform a song called "Waiting on Someday". If you watch this video, the Campbell children are Ashley (only female -- far left), Cal (second from right on guitar and with hat), and Shannon (far right). All the children are multi-talented. Ashley, for example, played keyboards and banjo; Cal played guitar and drums; Shannon played rhythm guitar. They harmonized extremely well.

When Campbell came on stage, he was accompanied by all the members of Instant People (except for one) as well as a gentleman who has been with him for over 35 years. He played all the major hits of his career as well as a few other songs.

Of course, I was interested in how well Campbell would be able to perform considering his illness. Having 3 of his children on stage with him provides him with a safety net, and they all watch after him, especially his daughter. For example, at one point, he was trying to take off his jacket, but neglected to remove his guitar first. He struggled for a moment before Ashley came to his aid. He is also led on and off stage, and took a short break in the middle of the show while the younger musicians played a song or two on their own.

He is still able to play guitar effectively, but the young man from Instant People who is not related to him covers for him by playing along for the most part. Teleprompters are also located around the stage for him to glance at, and he does make extensive use of them. Occasionally, he will walk around stage and walk beyond the teleprompters, but he doesn't stay away too long.

Those of us who have watched someone slip into the hazy and blurred hallways of dementia will recognize that blank gaze, and I saw it in Campbell's face a few times that night. But his voice still has its old range, though it might be a bit rough at times.

As I watched Campbell perform, I watched a man with a passion for entertaining. It's sad to know that his time is coming to a close and that the thing he loves to do in life will soon be outside his ability. I'm glad I was able to see him perform on his final tour.

Day Trip: Caverns of Sonora

Our grandson was visiting during his Spring Break last week, so we decided to take him to the Caverns of Sonora just to the southwest of Sonora, Texas. We had taken his mother there when she was about his age, so we were excited to share this experience with him.

Entrance to Caverns of Sonora

It was an overcast day on Wednesday, March 14. In fact, it drizzled a tiny bit a time or two. Sonora is about an hour south of San Angelo. To reach there, we passed through Christoval on the South Concho River, then Eldorado. While passing through Christoval, we noticed a new winery just off the highway, Christoval Vineyards and Winery. Looks like an opportunity for another day trip.

We arrived at the caverns about 11:30. We stepped up to the ticket counter and received 2 surprises. First, the next available tour would not be until 1:00, and ticket prices were $20 for adults and $16 for children. Ticket prices are not listed anywhere on the website that I could see, so I was really surprised at this amount. But we had come all this way, so it wasn't the proper time to be a cheapskate.

Tours leave every 30 minutes in groups of about 12 or fewer. Since this was Spring Break, they had quite a few customers waiting to tour the caverns. We should have arrived earlier, I guess. And if you go, you probably want to eat first as there is little more than basic snack items at the Caverns. Prices for everything are rather high. The caverns are probably about 10 - 15 miles out of Sonora, so they do have a corner on the market.

The caverns of Sonora are highly regarded by those who know more about caves than I do. There are beautiful formations throughout the cave system, and the pictures I've posted below do not do justice to the beauty of the caverns. The famous "butterfly" formation, which served as the cave's trademark for years and years, was vandalized in November, 2006. It was a beautiful formation, almost perfect in its shape resembling a butterfly. There are numerous other formations of interest in the caverns, from the "passing quarterback" to "applesauce" that are all of interest.

Our tour guide, Betsy, did a wonderful job leading us through the cave and giving us insight into the cave's history and various features. Each tour lasts about 1 hour 45 minutes. Please take seriously the information on the cave's website regarding clothing and temperature. By the end of the tour, most of the folks with us were a bit warm; it is very humid in the caverns. 

If you do journey to the caverns, probably the best place to eat in the area is the Sutton County Steakhouse located on I-10 in nearby Sonora.

Cave Popcorn

Horseshoe Lake

Various Formations

Apple Sauce

Cave Bacon

The Butterfly or, what's left of it. The top of the right wing was broken off by vandals.

Donna and our grandson Xander in the Belly of the Whale

Day Hike: Pedernales Falls State Park

We woke up to rain on Wednesday, February 31. This was our last full day in Blanco, so if we wanted to hike, we needed to do so whether it was raining or not. We ate a light breakfast, put our hiking packs together, then headed out. Our destination today is Pedernales Falls State Park, located about 10 or so miles east of Johnson City, Texas.

We hiked this park several years ago. There are 2 trail systems in the park, the Trammel Crossing Trail and the Wolf Mountain Trail. We had previously done Wolf Mountain, so I wanted to do Trammel Crossing. However, because of recent rains and the continuing threat of rain today, I was concerned about crossing the Pedernales River on foot, so we opted to do Wolf Mountain again.

We arrived at the trailhead and put on our packs and got our hiking poles. Fortunately, the rain began to subside and would not be an issue today.

Wolf Mountain Trail Head; note distance is 7.5 miles

The first stretch of the trail gives the appearance the trail will be through the woods. However, this is only a short connecting trail of 50 yards or less, and quickly gives way to a gravel road.

The first 2 miles of the trail is rather uneventful. There are 3 low-water creek crossings over Regal Creek, Bee Creek and Mescal Creek. Once past Mescal Creek, the trail enters the primitive camping area.

Low-water crossing over Bee Creek; note roadway

The primitive camping area is contained between Mescal Creek and Tobacco Creek, a distance of almost 1 mile. Once past the primitive camping area, the trail continues another .7 mile before reaching Jones Spring. This is the start of the most interesting section of the hike, at least for me.

Donna approaching Tobacco Creek, the least significant creek of those we encountered.

Jones Spring is a rather nondescript little spring, but it was obviously reliable enough that it caused an early settler to build a stone hut nearby. There is a steady trickle of water from the spring.

Jones Spring. The spring is actually in the green growth just above the water level.

Old homestead hut near Jones Spring

Homesteader's hut. Small, isn't it?

Artifacts found at that site and left on stones of the hut

After a few minutes inspecting the old hut and the area, we continued on the trail. The next 1 mile is the only real "hiking trail" segment on this hike, as far as I'm concerned. It is a single-path trail as opposed to the gravel road we've been hiking up to this point. This trail really only connects us to another roadway. Much of the trail is on a steady uphill incline as it works its way towards Wolf Mountain. The incline is not a challenge as it is very gradual for the most part.

One of the more interesting parts of this section of the trail is the remains of an old rock fence early settlers built. Perhaps it was even built by the settler who lived in the hut. Imagine the patience and determination required to build such a fence, let alone the physical challenge. I don't know how long this fence was, but we encountered it off and on over a stretch of the trail.

Rock wall near homesteader's hut

Another section of the rock wall

Once the trail junctions with the roadway, we headed towards Wolf Mountain. At the crest of the "mountain", the trail splits and loops around the top of the hill. You can go either way as the trails converge on the other side of the hill. Since we had taken the west side on our previous hike a few years ago, we opted for the east loop this time.

There are nice views from the loop trail, and the Pedernales River valley can be seen on the northeast side. We decided to stop for a snack at a bench located there. Donna had brought an apple, celery, carrots, and peanut butter for a healthy snack. We spent a few minutes enjoying a little rest there before getting back on the trail.

View from Wolf Mountain. The green in the center is actually the slope of the Pedernales River

The trail down from Wolf Mountain eventually arrives at the primitive camping area. From that point on, we simply followed the trail we had traveled over earlier in the day.

The last time we hiked this trail was in the heat of the summer. Although we don't shy away from hiking in the summer heat, this is not a good trail to hike at that time. The roadways in the park do not allow much shade or protection from the summer sun, so it is really better to hike this trail in cooler weather as we did this time.

LBJ Tours: Part 2, the LBJ Ranch

After our morning tour of the LBJ Boyhood Home, Johnson Settlement, and Visitor Center in Johnson City, Donna and I headed west to Stonewall, the site of the LBJ Ranch and the Texas White House.

The Lyndon B. Johnson State Park and Historic Site is located on US 290 in Stonewall, Texas. As in Johnson City, there is also a Visitor Center here with displays and exhibits. It is also the place to begin the driving tour. At the Visitor Center, you get a driving tour pass to allow you on the ranch grounds. You also receive a CD to play. Be sure to play the CD as it provides great information about the tour as you drive along.

From the Visitor Center, you can tour the Sauer-Beckman Farmstead, which is a homestead maintained as in 1918. The volunteers and employees actually conduct themselves as if they live here, including eating their meals from food products raised on the farm. They had recently butchered a hog to make sausage, which they were currently smoking.

Sauer-Beckman Farmstead

Canned vegetables from the farmstead garden

Sausage in the smokehouse

Donna and I both agreed that our favorite part of the day was the tour of the Johnson Ranch and the Texas White House. For years when driving through the area on our way back and forth between West Texas and Conroe, Donna and I have often taken Ranch Road 1, which veers off US 290 and follows the Pedernales River for a few miles. The little road is a pretty drive, affording beautiful views of the river, the oak and pecan trees, and the Johnson Ranch. We often commented that we needed to stop and tour the ranch, but we were always in a hurry. We aren't in a hurry anymore; time to tour the ranch.

The tour begins on Ranch Road 1. At Klein Road, turn north, cross the river, then immediately turn west and view the old Junction School, a one-room school house where LBJ learned to read. This is also the place where he signed the Elementary and Secondary Education Act as President in 1965.

The Junction School, where LBJ learned to read

A bit farther down the road is the recreated birthplace of LBJ. The President was born at this site August 27, 1908. In 1964, he rebuilt the house as a guest house.

Recreated birthplace of LBJ

Right across the road from the birthplace is the Johnson family cemetery. It is a peaceful, tree covered patch of ground on the banks of the Pedernales River, with a Lutheran Church in the background. LBJ, Lady Bird, and many other Johnsons rest here. It's a good place to spend eternity.

Johnson Family Cemetery. Just beyond, the Pedernales River (not visible), Ranch Road 1, and the Lutheran Church.

LBJ and Lady Bird have the 2 largest markers in the center

A bit farther down the road is the final home of Sam and Eliza Johnson, the President's grandparents. They left the Settlement in Johnson City to live out the final years of their lives here.

Sam and Eliza Johnson's final home

After passing the Sam and Eliza Johnson home, the tour turns north into the actual LBJ ranch. The road heads north for about one and a half miles, loops, then returns south. Actually, the road simply loops the landing strip where Air-Force One-Half (as LBJ nicknamed the 13-seat Lockheed Jetstar -- Air Force One was too large to land on the ranch) would land back in the 1960s. LBJ spent about 25% of his time during the Presidency at the Texas White House, so not only did LBJ land here, but other planes ferrying dignitaries -- both domestic and foreign -- would land here as well.

At the hanger, we parked and entered the Visitor Center. Up to now, everything we had done today has been free, but there is a $2 per person fee to tour the ranch house. We gladly paid that nominal amount. A very competent tour guide then led us through the Texas White House, entertaining questions throughout the tour. We were not allowed to take pictures inside the Texas White House, so I have no pictures to show you of the interior.

Originally, the house was a single room affair erected from native limestone. LBJ's aunt and uncle bought the house in 1909, then LBJ purchased the house from his aunt in 1951. Over the years, the Johnson's enlarged the house time and time again until today it is 2 stories and about 8,000 square feet. We were only allowed to tour the first floor.

It's a unique feeling to know that you are walking where some famous and powerful people walked. I actually felt like we were imposing a bit as we walked through the bedrooms where LBJ and Lady Bird spent their nights. 

Texas White House; President's office is room on far left; master bedrooms on far right; the part where the porch is under the bow of the oak tree is the original room of the house.

Lockheed Jetstar VC-140, jokingly referred to as "Air Force One Half" by LBJ because of its smaller size

LBJ's 1962 Amphicar is displayed with other of the President's cars at the ranch

I really enjoyed the day we spent learning about LBJ. I admit I'm partial to the late President. Since he was a Texan, I really took an interest in him as a child. His rise to power is such an interesting story.

LBJ Tours: Part 1, Boyhood Home

Tuesday, March 28, was tourist day for us. We have passed through this part of the state for years and years and have never really visited the LBJ facilities available in Stonewall and Johnson City, so we decided we would do so today.

The park service has done a wonderful job telling the story of President Johnson, our 36th president. And by telling his story, they have also told the story of all Texans -- and particularly those in the Hill Country. LBJ was probably the last president to be born in "frontier" type conditions, and his life serves as a transition from the 19th century into the 20th century.

Our first stop for the day was the National Park Service Visitor Center in Johnson City. Within this facility, permanent exhibits are arranged to showcase the lives of Lyndon and Lady Bird Johnson.

Lady Bird exhibit at the Visitor Center

In addition to the exhibits and displays, the Visitor Center is a good place to get information to plan the rest of the LBJ tour.

From the Visitor Center, it is a 1 block walk to the LBJ Boyhood Home, where LBJ lived from age 5 until he graduated from high school. The home has been well maintained, and offers a glimpse into life in this part of Texas in the early 20th century. The tour guide we had also did a marvelous job revealing the influences during these years that led LBJ into a life of politics.

LBJ Boyhood Home in Johnson City, Texas

Kitchen in LBJ Boyhood Home

Back of LBJ Boyhood Home

Just a block or so west of the Visitor Center and LBJ Boyhood Home is a trail leading to the Johnson Settlement where LBJ's grandfather and great-uncle established a homestead in the 1860s. Several original buildings still stand in this area on the edge of Johnson City.

Cabin and other original buildings in the Johnson Settlement. The cabin belonged to Sam and Eliza Johnson, LBJ's grandparents

Barn and cabin in Johnson Settlement

In Part II, we'll tour the Texas White House and other places in Stonewall.