Trip Report: Fort Davis National Historic Site

Fort Davis National Historic Site is located at the mouth of a box canyon on the north edge of the town of Ft. Davis, the highest incorporated town in Texas. The fort was established in 1854 to protect emigrants and stagecoaches from Apaches and Comanches along the San Antonio-El Paso Road, which came directly through the grounds of the post. The fort was closed in 1891. It is regarded as one of the best preserved frontier forts in the Southwest.

Today, visitors can enjoy self-guided tours of furnished buildings and ruins and hiking on designated nature trails, which connect with trails of adjacent Davis Mountains State Park. One of the more unique features of the post are the bugle calls and sound representation of an 1875 dress retreat parade heard over the parade ground at scheduled times throughout the day. Five restored and refurnished structures are open on a self-guided basis.

Parade ground with officers' quarters

Donna and I visited the fort in the 1980s, but wanted to tour the grounds again. We began at the visitor center, which contains numerous exhibits. The visitor center is housed in a restored barracks. Next door is a restored and furnished barracks detailing what living conditions would have been like in the 1880s.

Interior of restored and furnished barracks

Next, we toured the restored/furnished commisary building, and then took a short hike to the post cemetery. Following this short detour, our route took us by several two-story officers' quarters. Next we stopped to tour some of the houses along "Officers' Row".

Ruins of two-story officers' quarters in foreground. Restored two-story officers' quarters in center. Officers' Row beyond this with Sleeping Lion Mountain in background.

The first house we toured was that belonging to the commanding officer, which is located near the center of Officers' Row. We then toured a house shared by lieutenants.

Quarters for commanding officer. Note 3 chimneys on near side, with 2 more on opposite side.

Much of the fort is comprised of foundation ruins. Work is being done constantly to improve and maintain the buildings.

Originally, the post was located deeper in the canyon than the buildings indicate. During the War-Between-the-States, the post was eventually abandoned. When re-occupied in 1867, buildings were located farther out on the flat area at the mouth of the canyon.

The fort is located in a very scenic area, with rocky escarpments on the west side of the post. Limpia Creek lies just to the north, and this served as the main water source. There were also numerous trees nearby, a rarity in much of West Texas, and these were useful for building materials and fuel.

North edge of Officers' Row at left. Intact two-story officers' quarters and ruins of another officers' quarters. Ruins of fort chapel at right. Note canyon escarpment in background.

Fort Davis had a colorful history. In addition to protecting emigrants and settlers, it was involved in an experiment beginning in 1855 to use camels in the southwest to carry supplies. During 1859 and 1860, Fort Davis served as the base of operations for this experiment, and the camels were able to carry heavier loads than horses, mules, and oxen while requiring less water and food. However, with the outbreak of the War-Between-the-States, the experiment was forgotten.

Following the war, buffalo soldiers occupied the post, as they did many other frontier posts. By 1880, things became peaceful on the frontier, and the post was finally closed in 1891.

Visitors to the fort should allow 2 or 3 hours to walk the grounds, tour the furnished buildings and visitor center, and watch an interpretive film.

Trip Report: Davis Mountains State Park

Since moving back to West Texas, Donna and I have been looking forward to camping in the Davis Mountains at Davis Mountains State Park. Years ago, when our daughter was not yet in school, we used to go to the Davis Mountains to tent camp. We always talked about coming back one day when we had a travel trailer. That day has finally come.

Davis Mountains State Park consists of 2,708.9 acres in the Davis Mountains, which is the most extensive mountain range in Texas. The elevation ranges from 5,000 to 6,000 feet, which makes for a pleasant summer climate. During our stay, the daily highs were in the low 90s and the nightly lows were in the low 60s. After baking in 105 degree weather for the past 3 months, this felt great.

After setting up our trailer, we drove around the park to see how much it had changed since our last visit there in the early 1990s. It looked relatively unchanged. One of our favorite areas of the park is Skyline Drive, the roadway which goes to the summit of the highest point in the park. From here, views of the surrounding countryside are outstanding.

Below are a series of pictures taken from our perch atop Skyline Drive.

Our trailer in red circle. Large structure at top is Indian Lodge, the historic hotel built in pueblo fashion by the CCC in the early 1930s. Campground is located along Keesey Creek.

Same picture as above, but showing greater vista and how the park is located in a valley.



Highway 118 weaving north along Limpia Creek.



I've always liked how light and shadows play against a mountain background.

True West Texas high plateau ranch country. Looking south towards Marfa and Alpine. Structure in right center is massive greenhouse where Ft. Davis hot house tomatoes are grown.

Rocky canyon in foreground. Mitre Peak in center distance. Looking towards Alpine.

Mountain vista

Mount Locke with domes in center. Another observatory on Mount Fowlkes towards the right.

Park entrance in center off Highway 118

We enjoyed viewing quite a bit of wildlife during our trip. Almost daily, a mule deer (doe) wandered through or near our campsite, as did a group of javelinas. Unfortunately, we were also visited by several skunks. Although we did not get sprayed, fear of being sprayed as well as rabies drove us inside the trailer whenever these varmints approached. We also saw a badger and a coyote, as well as some other mule deer.

Over the next several days -- as time allows -- I'll post entries for Ft. Davis National Historic Site, McDonald Observatory, and the Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute.

New Curbing

We recently had some work done on the house.

One day during one of our walks, we passed a house that was having some curbing put in place. I stopped and visited with the workers and got their contact information. A few days later I called and requested a quote for some similar work at our place.

We had concrete curbing put in place to outline the front flower bed as well as the oak tree in the front yard. Below are some before and after pictures.



"Before" picture: July 13, 2011



"After" picture: August 19, 2011

The curbing really makes a difference, I think, and it makes the yard look much neater, much cleaner. Below are some other angles of the yard with the new curbing in place.

The "after" pictures were taken a few days after we had received a very good rain over a period of 2 days. The bermuda grass really responds well to rain and sun.

Good Eats: Packsaddle BBQ, San Angelo, Texas

I have a confession to make.

Donna and I have lived in West Texas off and on ever since 1979. We have always loved living out here: the people are great, the "big sky" is fantastic, and we've generally enjoyed the drier climate. However, there is one thing in West Texas I've not been too fond of until recently, and that is barbeque.

In the past, much of the BBQ I've sampled in West Texas has been more grilled than smoked. As a result, I've always favored East Texas BBQ, especially that cooked over hickory and oak. However, we recently gave Packsaddle BBQ a try, and I really enjoyed my meal.

Packsaddle BBQ is located on Knickerbocker Road near Lake Nasworthy. It is packed for lunch every day it is open. The day we went, there didn't seem to be as many cars since it was well past noon, so we thought we'd have no trouble getting a seat.

We were wrong.

Although it did not have its normal large crowd, we still had to wait to get a table, but the meal was worth the wait.

Since this was my first visit, I wanted to try something basic that would let me sample several items, so I had the sliced-beef plate with potato salad and beans, served with 2 slices of white bread. Everything was excellent, including the $6.95 price. Service was traditional Texas home style where the waitress kept my tea glass full. Some friendly folks work there.

The menu is pretty extensive for a BBQ place, so I'm anxious to venture back and try some other dishes, such as chicken fried steak, onion rings, and burgers.

There are several other BBQ places located in San Angelo, including Bodacious (an East Texas-based chain), and I'm eager to try each of them. But it's nice to know Packsaddle is there with some quality BBQ.

Dry Lake

O. C. Fisher Reservoir is located within San Angelo State Park. The lake was completed by the US Corps of Engineers in 1952 for flood control on the North Concho River. The lake normally occuppies a surface area of 5,440 acres with a maximum depth of 58 feet. That is not the case now.

O.C. Fisher Reservoir now is completely dry.



Donna at bottom of boat ramp

Back in April, I posted an entry on the lake with some pictures. Now is a good time to compare those images.

Boat ramp, April 2011

Same boat ramp, August 2011

We need some rain.

Angelo State Theater

Donna and I recently purchased season memberships for the Angelo State University Theatre. The season tickets entitle us to attend 5 plays this year, including 2 dinner theaters.

We attended our first play this past Thursday night: Butterflies are Free, a comedy written by Leonard Gershe. This particular play was one of the 2 dinner theaters available throughout the year, so we really enjoyed ourselves.

The play was originally produced in 1969. In 1972, a film version was made starring Edward Albert and Goldie Hawn. In the movie version, the setting was moved from the original Manhattan location to San Francisco.

The plot revolves around a blind man whose controlling mother disapproves of his relationship with a free-spirited hippie. The title was inspired by a passage in Charles Dickens' Bleak House: "I only ask to be free. The butterflies are free. Mankind will surely not deny to Harold Skimpole what it concedes to the butterflies.

The set design was good, but the acting left something to be desired. For example, I was never convinced that the leading male was blind, and the female lead had to work too hard to come across as being "free-spirited". I was always aware that the lines were just that -- lines which had been memorized. They never came across as being natural; and that, after all, is the quality that makes acting convincing.

Still, it was an enjoyable evening. And in defense of the cast anbd crew, it was opening night of a two-week run, so there may have been some opening night jitters.

Heat Wave

I don't know how things are where you live, but conditions are really challenging in my part of West Texas right now.

The information below was published in the July 27th edition of the San Angelo Standard Times, our local newspaper. We subscribe to the paper, so I'm not sure this information is available in the online edition. Keep in mind that the National Weather Service began keeping records for the San Angelo area in 1907, over 100 years ago.

• The average temperature for July (so far): 89.4
• Previous hottest July on record: 1912, when the daily average temp was 87.6. So, we are currently almost 2 degrees above that.
• Hottest month on record: June, 2011 (last month). Average temp was 88.6. We will probably break that record when July ends.
• Previous longest streak of consecutive 100-degree days: 26 days from July 30 to August 24, 2010.
• Current streak of consecutive 100-degree days: 25 days from July 2 to July 26, 2011. As I prepare to publish this on July 28, the temp exceeded 100 yesterday, so we have at least tied the record. Our local forecast for the next 5 days calls for temps in excess of 100. So, barring a miracle, a new record will be set.
• Lowest rainfall for January 1 to July 31: 3.13 inches in 1956
• Current rainfall for January 1 to July 31: 2.94 inches. Doesn't look good.

Altogether this year, we have had 62 days of 100 degree temperatures. This is a record. These are not the kinds of records we like to set.

So, we've had little rain and excessive heat. Since much of our water comes from area lakes, that is not good. Much water in the lakes is lost daily to evaporation. A bigger problem contributing to our lakes drying up, though, is the fact that we simply use too much water.

The United States is a nation of excesses. We've always been wasteful. If you doubt this, then consider what we did to the buffalo, mostly in the name of greed. Where else but in the United States would we build a metropolis in the middle of a desert and then use water there as if it were plentiful? I'm speaking of Las Vegas. And how much water do we spend watering golf courses, baseball fields, and football fields, among other things. And now the oil companies are using a water intensive method called fracking to retrieve oil. When we finish using something, we throw it away rather than recycle or re-use it.

San Angelo relies on several area lakes for fresh water. Because these are drying up, the city is developing an underground source called the Hickory Aquifer. Below are lake levels as recorded in the July 27th Standard Times.

• Nasworthy, 83% capacity and 8,438 acre feet (small lake)
• O.C. Fisher, 0% capacity and 0 acre feet (very large capacity lake fed by the North Concho River that is totally dry)
• Twin Buttes, 10% capacity and 17,960 acre feet (potentially large lake fed by Middle Concho River, South Concho River, Dove Creek and Spring Creek)
• E. V. Spence, 1% capacity and 3,522 acre feet
• O. H. Ivie, 24% capacity and 130,404 acre feet (potentially large lake fed by Colorado River and Concho River)

Water restrictions are in place. We are allowed to water lawns once each week. I continually try to find ways to conserve water. When building the house, I added gutters that could be removed halfway down so that rain barrels could be set in place to harvest rainwater. However, I don't have the barrels in place yet, but that doesn't really matter since it hasn't rained lately. But collecting such water would allow me to water outdoor plants with harvested water. I plan to add these soon.

I also place a 5 gallon bucket under the drain for my AC system. I collect between 3 and 4 gallons a day right now, and I use that water to water trees and selected plants. 3 or 4 gallons doesn't sound like much, but it adds up to about 100 gallons each month.

Basically, it is rather silly for people like me to move to a semi-desert environment and then attempt to build a landscape that is designed for someplace that receives much more rain than we do. And if you look all over the west, you'll see this same practice in place. Green lawns just don't belong in the desert -- it isn't natural.